Without a doubt, the most elegant garment in a man’s wardrobe is the suit jacket. It comes as part of a set with matching trousers and sometimes a vest in the same or contrasting fabric.
There are two main types of suit jackets: the single breasted jacket, usually with notch lapels, and the double breasted jacket, strictly with peak lapels. From time to time, you can find a suit with a mandarin collar, but it is not conventional. Shawl lapels are commonly used on a tuxedo jacket.
Single-breasted jackets have a single row of buttons down the front, usually two or three; there may be four occasionally, commonly for very tall men. The front sides of the jacket only overlap enough to allow for buttoning.
A double-breasted jacket has two rows of buttons, with the front overlapping enough to allow both front sides to meet the opposite row of buttons. These jackets were all the rage in the ’80s and seem to be going through something of a renaissance with some high-profile recent adopters in David Beckham, Jake Gyllenhaal, and even Prince Charles. However, today’s double-breasted jackets are just remnants of what they once were: Gone are the big shoulder pads, they’ve been shortened, and the bulk factor has been eliminated altogether, allowing shorter men the opportunity to don one without being overwhelmed.
Jacket fit. The fit is the most important part of the jacket and I can’t stress it enough. People have different levels of comfort with how tight they wear their jackets. This is usually done at the waist to allow the jacket to closely follow the contours of the body. It all depends on how comfortable you feel in the look. You may have noticed that men who dress powerfully, bankers and management consultants for example, wear tapered jackets as that is what basically creates the image. To look good in a suit, your jackets don’t have to fit that level unless you like it that way. Although be careful that it is not too loose either since that creates the opposite effect of a worn image. Make sure it fits you well and that the fabric is not tight in some corners and loose in others.
Here are some other things you’ll want to look at to make sure the rest of your jacket fits well. The waist button should rest just below the wearer’s natural waistline. The length of the jacket should be in line with the middle knuckle of the thumb and the back should rest slightly below the bottom. The cuffs should rest a bit above where the wrists are. This leaves room for the shirt cuffs to show through, usually about a half inch.
Jacket shoulders. Jackets are generally built around the shoulders, and this structure is essential to the fit of the garment. The most important function of the shoulders of the jacket is to create symmetry. People come in all different shapes and sizes and that goes for your shoulders too. Some men have extremely broad shoulders, some have sloping shoulders, and some will even have shoulders of different heights. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that and a well-sewn tailored jacket will easily help create symmetry. Shoulder padding is the place to start. Make sure the shoulder lines are well defined but 레플리카 not exaggerated. For most people, excessively large shoulder pads, for example those that extend beyond the natural line of the shoulders, create a disproportionate appearance. On the other hand, if you naturally have small shoulders, having the shoulder pads extend slightly past your shoulder line will correct the look for you. It all depends on your body type.
The thickness of the padding is the next thing to look at. If you naturally have shoulders of different heights, you can use the padding of different thicknesses to easily correct it. As a general rule, with padded shoulder pads, gone are the days when puffy shoulder pads were all the rage. Today’s jackets largely have thin padding with a natural slope slightly downwards. Too much padding causes the neck and head to be engulfed by the jacket, and padding that is too thin does not allow the jacket to have the formal look that a suit jacket is supposed to create. What a tailored jacket does is create uniformity and symmetry no matter what your natural shoulders look like.
Jacket lapels. Lapels are the folded fabric flaps at the front of the jacket; a continuation of the jacket collar that extends to where the buttons begin. The